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Saturday, July 23, 2016

Walking Through The Tom James Fall 2016 Collection

Tom James Fall 2016 Collection

Some of the great looks this season that you will be seeing in Fall Winter 2016.  We start with the looks books for men where we feature both fashionable modern looks as well as some more traditional outfits.  Then I walk through each of our collections on some of the more popular fabrics featuring Custom Suits, Custom Shirts, Custom Trousers/Pants and Ties.  Finally I share a few of my favorite looks for the weekend and casual featuring shorts, polos, jeans, sweaters etc.

Enjoy
Erik Peterson






7/23/2016 11:30:00 AM

Posted by +Erik Peterson














+Tom James Company Tampa Bay #300
12100 31st Court Suite A
St Petersburg FL 33716

e.peterson@tomjames.com
727-916-7848

My Other Offices:
+Tom James Company Sarasota           Tom James Lakeland
2100 Constitution Ave                          100 S Kentucky
Suite 166                                                Lakeland FL 33801
Sarasota FL 34231
941- 487-0095                                    863-666-0860


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Labels: Tom James Company Erik Peterson Eric Petersen Custom Suit Custom Shirts Bespoke Shirts Mens Suits Mens Store Mens Clothing Mens Dress Shirts Florida eriktampa Tailor Custom Tailor Spring fall 2016 winter 2016 fw16 Lookbook look books sportswear casual clothing sarasota lakeland st petersburg clearwater bradenton tampa tampabay mens shorts jeans polos golf golfwear tshirts executive collection corporate image royal classic oxxford clothing holland and sherry tailored suits belts

Saturday, June 18, 2016

The Faux-Bespoke Suit: A Buyer’s Guide


Makers of affordable ready-made menswear such as Suitsupply, Ring Jacket and Banana Republic have found ways to add bespoke touches to off-the-rack jackets. Here’s how to recognize real custom details on lapels, pockets and buttonholes the next time you’re shopping vs these imposters


ENLARGE
ILLUSTRATION: PATRICK LEGER
JAKE MUESER always prided himself on his sharp sartorial eye. “Six years ago, I could identify a custom suit from a block away,” said Mr. Mueser, the owner and creative director of J. Mueser, a menswear shop in Manhattan’s West Village. These days, however, when less-costly suits increasingly sport Savile Row-worthy features—from working buttonholes and visible stitching to labor-intensive interlinings—he needs to take a closer look. “Men are thinking about tailoring in a more serious way,” Mr. Mueser said. “And brands are increasingly offering hand-finished details in pieces.
This trickle-down bespoke tailoring isn’t an indication that demanding dandies are on the rise and heading for the mall like an unusually spiffy band of “The Walking Dead.” Rather, evolving construction methods have made it easier for brands like Suitsupply, Ring Jacket and Banana Republic to incorporate these extras into jackets costing $230 to $2,900—well below the typical starting price of $5,000 for a high-end bespoke jacket.
Topstitching in subtle contrast colors and bright-hued jacket linings telegraph a custom look, but the new higher-quality tailoring extends beyond such surface details. One big development, for example, has been in a jacket’s interlining, key to the way the garment fits. For years, a “fused” or glued-on layer—with its unwelcome rigidity and tendency to look lumpen after repeated cleanings—was the default undergirding for affordable blazers. Costly Savile Row suits, on the other hand, have a full-canvas underlining that’s hand-stitched to the wool shell from shoulder to hem, providing a pliable silhouette that ensures a tailored fit.
The faux compromise is a half-canvas interlining that’s attached to the jacket’s wool shell from the shoulder to waistline. New machinery makes it easier to stitch, instead of fuse, the half-canvas to the shell. “A stitched half-canvas provides a more personalized fit,” said Nish de Gruiter, vice president of Suitsupply USA, an Amsterdam-based menswear company.
Lapels, buttonholes and pockets are also talking points, especially if you’re checking out Freemans Sporting Club’s online “Made-to-Order” program that lets guys choose the level of customization, from fabric selection to type of canvas interlining, they desire.

Anatomy of the Faux-Bespoke Suit
Four Savile Row-worthy details to watch out for
The Lapel Roll |Suit snobs want a lapel that smoothly conforms to the body, traditionally an effect only hand-tailoring could achieve. “Factory-made jackets go through a basting machine and end up with a stiff, flattened or misshapen lapel,” Mr. Mueser explained. “With hand-canvassed lapels, a tailor adds a kind of ease into the lapel as he stitches and smooths it.” Japanese menswear label Ring Jacket, whose jackets start at $1,200, has found a way to approximate artisanal handiwork affordably. It uses state-of-the-art lapel-padding machines that devotees claim convincingly replicate the human tailor’s touch.
Pickstitching | Look closely at a Savile Row suit and you’ll see a neat row of hand-stitches on the edge of the pockets, lapels and hem. Lately, however, this bespoke finishing technique is showing up a lot in semi-bespoke menswear, said Jeffrey Hilliard of the Armoury, which has stores in New York and Hong Kong, because machines have gotten better at replicating it. J. Crew’s $450 Ludlow suit jacket features pickstitching on the lapels and pockets. “If the row of stitching looks too uniform, it was done by machine,” Mr. Hilliard added. If it isn’t done correctly, you’ll see uneven puckering.

Working Buttonholes | Also known as “surgeon’s cuffs,” because they let 19th-century doctors roll up their jacket sleeves, working buttonholes used to be a sign of elite customization but are now more readily available on demand. “We have more of our suppliers prepare sleeves for working buttonholes,” said Keith Carlisle, men’s divisional merchandise manager at Dallas luxury retailer Stanley Korshak. (The store charges $125 for the service, which is done by hand.) “Most guys want them,” agreed Freemans Sporting Club’s Kent Kitsoe, “the way you might want a silver Rolex Daytona.”

The Specialized Inner Pocket | Which Savile Row embellishment is least easily replicated? It might just be the customized pocket. At Alfred Dunhill’s Madison Avenue flagship in New York, a bespoke customer ordered (and received) a cigar-shaped pocket; the brand also made a suit for Neil Patrick Harris with a pocket to fit his cue cards. While such peculiarities aren’t likely to become standard anytime soon, somewhat specialized pockets are in play: off-the-rack Isaia jackets ($2,595) come with extra inside pockets—one for eyewear, another for a smartphone. Specificity, after all, is what customization is about.





6/18/2016 5:11:20 AM

Posted by +Erik Peterson













12100 31st Court Suite A
St Petersburg FL 33716

e.peterson@tomjames.com
727-916-7848

My Other Offices:
+Tom James Company Sarasota           Tom James Lakeland
2100 Constitution Ave                          100 S Kentucky
Suite 166                                                Lakeland FL 33801
Sarasota FL 34231
941- 487-0095                                    863-666-0860


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About: Erik Peterson has been with the Tom James Company since 1995. He serves clients in the Tampa St Petersburg Lakeland Sarasota market with their personal clothing needs. Specializing in Custom Bespoke Mens Suits Shirts Ties and Casual wear Erik Peterson - - Tom James Company would be happy to assist you with your wardrobe planning. He typically sees his clients in their office or home by appointment and is happy to help fit or tailor any of your existing clothing.


Labels: Tom James Company Erik Peterson Eric Petersen Custom Suit Custom Shirts Bespoke Shirts Mens Suits Mens Store Mens Clothing Mens Dress Shirts Florida eriktampa Tailor Custom Tailor Spring Summer 2016 SS16 Lookbook look books sportswear casual clothing sarasota lakeland st petersburg clearwater bradenton tampa tampabay mens shorts jeans polos golf golfwear tshirts executive collection corporate image royal classic oxxford clothing holland and sherry tailored suits belts wardrobe mens fashion mens style womens clothing mens clothing ladies Style faux bespoke suits fake custom full canvas wall street journal





Saturday, June 4, 2016

Professor Scissorhands: Meet the man behind the scissors


Meet Master Cutter, Jesus Flores,







6/5/2016 5:35:20 AM

Posted by +Erik Peterson













12100 31st Court Suite A
St Petersburg FL 33716

e.peterson@tomjames.com
727-916-7848

My Other Offices:
+Tom James Company Sarasota           Tom James Lakeland
2100 Constitution Ave                          100 S Kentucky
Suite 166                                                Lakeland FL 33801
Sarasota FL 34231
941- 487-0095                                    863-666-0860


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About: Erik Peterson has been with the Tom James Company since 1995. He serves clients in the Tampa St Petersburg Lakeland Sarasota market with their personal clothing needs. Specializing in Custom Bespoke Mens Suits Shirts Ties and Casual wear Erik Peterson - - Tom James Company would be happy to assist you with your wardrobe planning. He typically sees his clients in their office or home by appointment and is happy to help fit or tailor any of your existing clothing.


Labels: Tom James Company Erik Peterson Eric Petersen Custom Suit Custom Shirts Bespoke Shirts Mens Suits Mens Store Mens Clothing Mens Dress Shirts Florida eriktampa Tailor Custom Tailor Spring Summer 2016 SS16 Lookbook look books sportswear casual clothing sarasota lakeland st petersburg clearwater bradenton tampa tampabay mens shorts jeans polos golf golfwear tshirts executive collection corporate image royal classic oxxford clothing holland and sherry tailored suits belts wardrobe mens fashion mens style womens clothing mens clothing ladies esquire magazine june 2016 professor scissorhands





Saturday, May 14, 2016

The War Between Those That Hate Non-Iron Shirts And Those That Love Them

The War Over Non-Iron Shirts Some guys despise non-iron shirts, dismissing them as stiff and uncomfortable. Others swear by the convenience and defend them to their last thread. Can’t we all just get along?

 By GEORGE EPAMINONDAS with select edits by Erik Peterson



 Why We Hate Them 

 “Loathsome” and “hair shirt” are typical criticisms leveled by those in the camp that disdains non-iron shirts. These purists see the wrinkle-free versions as villains—think “Invasion of the Body Snatchers,” recast with uncomfortably rigid and stifling clone-shirts hijacking the existence of classic button-ups. “I loathe them,” said George Hahn, a writer who blogs about menswear. “Men who’ve only worn these Franken-fabric shirts don’t know the difference,” he sniffed.


 A product of the Eisenhower era, a period that also spawned nonstick fry pans and frozen TV dinners, non-iron shirts debuted at Brooks Brothers in 1953. Menswear historian and author Bruce Boyer noted that chemicals conglomerate DuPont worked with the menswear retailer to launch the first generation of Dacron-and-cotton shirts. Since then the non-iron formula hasn’t changed much, other than the fact that most are all-cotton shirts rather than blends: The anti-wrinkle properties are derived from a chemical treatment that releases formaldehyde and bonds the strands of cotton fibers to create a stiffer fabric less likely to wrinkle.

 “While the process makes for a wrinkle-free shirt fresh out of the dryer, the fabric breaks down and leads to blown-out elbows, becomes less breathable and feels stiffer,” said Paul Trible, co-founder and CEO of Ledbury, the Richmond, Va.-based luxury shirtmaker. “These shirts are not only bonded fibers, but have fused collars, cuffs and plackets,” said Mr. Boyer, which makes them immobile compared with traditional shirts. “Who wants to look like a sheet of aluminum?” he added.

 “As everything moves to being more environmentally friendly, these artificial shirts seem out of step,” said Greg Broom, founder of MixCraft, a New York juice-drink brand. Mr. Broom likes his cotton shirts the same way he prefers his fruit juice: pure and pressed. “Wearing formaldehyde, the chemical used in embalming, has never sounded tempting to me,” he said.

 Why We Love Them

 It’s difficult to appear buttoned-up in your button-down when it looks as though it was exhumed from King Tut’s tomb. You might say non-iron shirts have liberated men from schlumpiness. “Non-iron shirts are a reliable way to avoid looking like a crumpled mess,” said Tim Kelly, a regional operations manager at Douglas Elliman real estate in East Hampton, N.Y. For men like Mr. Kelly, who want to be dressed in under 15 minutes, having a wardrobe of crease-free shirts at the ready reduces the hassles of the morning routine.

 Non-iron shirts have also made pressing, steaming and expensive laundering services almost superfluous. “These shirts are easy as pie,” said Thomas Lavandosky, a senior project analyst with an investment firm in Los Angeles. “I hang them up right out of the dryer and don’t have to think about them. There’s no bag of button-downs to haul to the cleaner.” But that doesn’t mean that fit, texture and color are no longer concerns. At Brooks Brothers, non-iron varieties currently account for 90% of the overall shirt volume, said Guy Voglino, vice president brand manager, men’s & boys. You’ll find check versions with spread collars, triple-stripe and tattersall button-downs and three different fits. When asked whether formaldehyde is still a key ingredient in their manufacture, Mr. Voglino, like other non-iron makers who were interviewed, would only say a “proprietary formula is used, one that meets global safety standards” for both those involved in the production of them and for those actually wearing them.

 Men also call out the advantage that shirts remain crisp for work and travel. “Non-irons ensure you look presentable all day,” said Eugene Ree, senior director of men’s design at Banana Republic, who favors the brand’s Grant style, notable for its tailored fit. Joe Mc-Glynn, head of new business for New York marketing agency Wunderman, praises Mizzen + Main versions that rely on a stretchy polyester spandex to keep creases at bay. “I can crumple the shirts up in a ball and still put them on without a wrinkle,” he said.  See Erik Peterson to order Mizzen + Main.



 The success of non-iron shirts has inspired a high-end phalanx of “wrinkle-resistant” analogues from Ledbury and Tom James. There’s no ‘proprietary formula’ to fuse fibers together: At Ledbury, for example, fabrics are sprayed with a mild solvent and dried to stiffen the fibers before the shirt is made. Tom James custom performance shirts use 120's compact yard and a touch on Italian woven elastic fiber to give you that wrinkle free stretch that allows for greater comfort, breath ability, luster and style while offering superior performance.







5/14/2016 5:33:20 AM

Posted by +Erik Peterson













12100 31st Court Suite A
St Petersburg FL 33716

e.peterson@tomjames.com
727-916-7848

My Other Offices:
+Tom James Company Sarasota           Tom James Lakeland
2100 Constitution Ave                          100 S Kentucky
Suite 166                                                Lakeland FL 33801
Sarasota FL 34231
941- 487-0095                                    863-666-0860


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About: Erik Peterson has been with the Tom James Company since 1995. He serves clients in the Tampa St Petersburg Lakeland Sarasota market with their personal clothing needs. Specializing in Custom Bespoke Mens Suits Shirts Ties and Casual wear Erik Peterson - - Tom James Company would be happy to assist you with your wardrobe planning. He typically sees his clients in their office or home by appointment and is happy to help fit or tailor any of your existing clothing.


Labels: Tom James Company Erik Peterson Eric Petersen Custom Suit Custom Shirts Bespoke Shirts Mens Suits Mens Store Mens Clothing Mens Dress Shirts Florida eriktampa Tailor Custom Tailor Spring Summer 2016 SS16 Lookbook look books sportswear casual clothing sarasota lakeland st petersburg clearwater bradenton tampa tampabay mens shorts jeans polos golf golfwear tshirts executive collection corporate image royal classic oxxford clothing holland and sherry tailored suits belts wardrobe mens fashion mens style womens clothing mens clothing ladies Style Custom Shirt Promotion Buy One Get One Custom Dress Shirts Bespoke Shirts Tailored Shirts Mens Custom Made Shirts





Saturday, May 7, 2016

Spring 2016 Custom Shirt Promotion Tom James Tampa Bay


Tom James Company Of Tampa Bay  Semi Annual Custom Shirt Promotion Runs From Friday May 13th Through Friday June 10th 2016.   Buy 6 Custom Shirts And Get 1 Free.   It is a great time to add the basics custom shirts for the season or look at some of the specialty shirt options.   Untucked shirts,  short sleeve, dress or casual options we have them all see why custom shirts are the answer to your fit or styling issues. 

 

                                                 Learn Why Custom Shirts Are Right For You


From collar width to cuff style, you can customize almost every aspect of your dress shirt. Creating a custom dress shirt is an opportunity to express your sense of individual style. We offer only the best in fabrics and details to ensure that you stand out from the crowd.
Choose from 16 different monogram styles or contrasting fabrics and stitching that create your one-of-a-kind, bespoke shirt... the perfect complement to your custom business suit.

We offer 141 combinations of neck-and-sleeve sizes to ensure that you get the perfect fit. Neck sizes range from 14" to 22+"; sleeve lengths range from on average range from 28" to 41". Sleeves are cut slightly long to allow for natural shrinkage.

 FABRIC: All of our custom dress shirts are made from 100% fine cotton. We source our premium fabrics from some of the finest shirting mills in Europe, which means your shirt will feel soft, wear beautifully and look like a million bucks.

 COLLAR: Choose from five different styles, each carefully constructed to hold up to repeated laundering. Collars are cut slightly large to allow for natural shrinkage.



















 PLACKET: Choose from two placket styles: French and raised.

 POCKET: We offer the option of a rounded pocket or no pocket at all.

CUFFS: We offer different cuff styles: single-button barrel, single-button mitered and rounded French.


Monograms: Choose your monograms from the options below



























5/7/2016 5:10:20 AM

Posted by +Erik Peterson













12100 31st Court Suite A
St Petersburg FL 33716

e.peterson@tomjames.com
727-916-7848

My Other Offices:
+Tom James Company Sarasota           Tom James Lakeland
2100 Constitution Ave                          100 S Kentucky
Suite 166                                                Lakeland FL 33801
Sarasota FL 34231
941- 487-0095                                    863-666-0860


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About: Erik Peterson has been with the Tom James Company since 1995. He serves clients in the Tampa St Petersburg Lakeland Sarasota market with their personal clothing needs. Specializing in Custom Bespoke Mens Suits Shirts Ties and Casual wear Erik Peterson - - Tom James Company would be happy to assist you with your wardrobe planning. He typically sees his clients in their office or home by appointment and is happy to help fit or tailor any of your existing clothing.


Labels: Tom James Company Erik Peterson Eric Petersen Custom Suit Custom Shirts Bespoke Shirts Mens Suits Mens Store Mens Clothing Mens Dress Shirts Florida eriktampa Tailor Custom Tailor Spring Summer 2016 SS16 Lookbook look books sportswear casual clothing sarasota lakeland st petersburg clearwater bradenton tampa tampabay mens shorts jeans polos golf golfwear tshirts executive collection corporate image royal classic oxxford clothing holland and sherry tailored suits belts wardrobe mens fashion mens style womens clothing mens clothing ladies Style Custom Shirt Promotion Buy One Get One Custom Dress Shirts Bespoke Shirts Tailored Shirts Mens Custom Made Shirts





Saturday, April 30, 2016

The End Of An Era Oxxford Clothing Is Relocating From Chicago's West Loop

By  with minor edits by Erik Peterson
oxxford-clothes-suits-west-loop-fashion.jpg
Photo by Erik UngerInside Oxxford's current West Loop headquarters
In one more example of the new sweeping out the old in the West Loop, 100-year-old custom suitmaker Oxxford Clothes is selling its seven-story manufacturing building at Van Buren Street and Racine Avenue and moving to the Southwest Side.
The company has produced its bespoke apparel from 1220 W. Van Buren St. for 67 years, said Oxxford President Bob Denton. But with skyrocketing real estate prices, he said the time has come to sell the building and move to a more modern space in an office park near Midway International Airport.
"I don't have to tell you what's going on in the West Loop—it's a bit of a land grab," Denton said. "We thought it was time to move into a more efficient space."
Oxxford makes everything by hand, in the tradition of London's Savile Row, and presses each suit dozens of times throughout the construction process. It still relies on old-fashioned oil-fired boilers to create the steam needed to press the garments.
The move will allow Oxxford to update its facilities. In addition to using electrical boilers, the company plans to add electronic tags into all of its pieces so they can be scanned and tracked as they go through a 166-step assembly process.
"We're going to start taking photos along the way so we can send them to customers and say, 'Here's your coat getting its final pressing,' " Denton said. "Customers can follow their garment right through the factory."
Denton declined to give the address of the Midway building, as the deal isn't complete. He expects the West Loop location to be sold and the move to happen in the fourth quarter. Ari Klein and Larry Goldwasser of Cushman & Wakefield are representing Oxxford in the sale of the building.
Denton said he anticipates some downtown customers won't want to make the trek to the Southwest Side to get fitted for their suits, which start at about $3,500 and go as high as $50,000. (Here's where we feel compelled to remind you that former Gov. Rod Blagojevich spent more than $200,000 at Oxxford over seven years.)
So Denton has partnered with Albert Karoll, owner of Richard Bennett Custom Tailors on Jackson Boulevard near the Board of Trade building in the Loop. Karoll, who creates his own custom suits with a team of seven tailors, will now also measure and fit customers for Oxxford suits.
"People ask, 'Why do you need Oxxford when you're already making very high-quality custom suits?' " Karoll said. "The simple answer is that they're at such a different scale; they're able to do techniques and design that just take it to the next level."
Richard Bennett suits sell for about $3,500 apiece. Karoll said an Oxxford suit will represent a step up in price for most of his customers; still, he expects sales to jump by about 20 percent as a result of the partnership.
CHANGING TIMES, CHANGING FORTUNES
 - Richard Bennett Custom Tailors in the Loop will now sell Oxxford suits.
Richard Bennett Custom Tailors in the Loop will now sell Oxxford suits.
Oxxford has weathered ups and downs in its century of existence.
The company, founded in Chicago in 1916 by brothers Jacob and Louis Weinberg, has outfitted Clark Gable, Joe DiMaggio, Walter Cronkite and Blagojevich, among others.
The Weinbergs sold Oxxford to Byer-Rolnick, a Dallas-based hat manufacturer, in 1963; Levi Strauss eventually took ownership in 1979. Nine years later, Oxxford's CEO at the time, Jack McDonald, purchased it back with the help of an investment team that included Harvard Management, which runs Harvard University's endowment.
The investors lost everything in the early '90s, when lender Heller International foreclosed on Oxxford's assets. Hit by the rise of business casual, it was losing money at the time. Menswear company Tom James Company purchased Oxxford from Heller in 1994 and owns it today. 
The Tom James Company has two locations in Chicago that also carry Oxxford Chicago Downtown and Western Suburbs.
These days, Denton said, Oxxford is on firmer financial footing. "Our business over the last five or six years has been better; we've had nice increases every year," he said. "A lot of people who are interested in dressing well are finding us and are very interested in the process. They don't want to go to a store and settle for something."
Oxxford is profitable, according to Denton. "Our profit and financials are very healthy," he said. "Things are good."
Still, the reality of today's casual dress means the business won't likely return to its heyday. The company makes at least 35 suits a day, which translates to about 8,000 a year. That's a far cry from the 35,000 suits Oxxford cranked out annually back in 1986, according to a Chicago Tribune story at the time.





4/21/2016 5:10:20 AM

Posted by +Erik Peterson













12100 31st Court Suite A
St Petersburg FL 33716

e.peterson@tomjames.com
727-916-7848

My Other Offices:
+Tom James Company Sarasota           Tom James Lakeland
2100 Constitution Ave                          100 S Kentucky
Suite 166                                                Lakeland FL 33801
Sarasota FL 34231
941- 487-0095                                    863-666-0860


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About: Erik Peterson has been with the Tom James Company since 1995. He serves clients in the Tampa St Petersburg Lakeland Sarasota market with their personal clothing needs. Specializing in Custom Bespoke Mens Suits Shirts Ties and Casual wear Erik Peterson - - Tom James Company would be happy to assist you with your wardrobe planning. He typically sees his clients in their office or home by appointment and is happy to help fit or tailor any of your existing clothing.


Labels: Tom James Company Erik Peterson Eric Petersen Custom Suit Custom Shirts Bespoke Shirts Mens Suits Mens Store Mens Clothing Mens Dress Shirts Florida eriktampa Tailor Custom Tailor Spring Summer 2016 SS16 Lookbook look books sportswear casual clothing sarasota lakeland st petersburg clearwater bradenton tampa tampabay mens shorts jeans polos golf golfwear tshirts executive collection corporate image royal classic oxxford clothing holland and sherry tailored suits belts wardrobe mens fashion mens style womens clothing mens clothing ladies Style consultant Oxxford Clothing Chicago